Day 20 "They bike like crazy - ah" - says the Canadian about no see ems. Seems we have swapped the mosquito's for these bugs. It got dark by 11.30 tonight so things are sort of back to normal. In Slave Lake 'Jewel of the North' tonight - very nice town so the promise might just be true. We had a surprise return to the gravel when the tarmac ran out for 130 miles. Thankfully we have seen the last of the boreal forest. It is interesting for a while but after a while it gets a bit much. There is a wood pecker in the trees around here this evening but I can't see him but he sure makes a noise.